Charles Darwin's voyage of the Beagle, including his less than flattering account of his visit to New Zealand in 1835, is now readily accessible in this full text electronic version freely available on the internet.
"I believe we were all glad to leave New Zealand. It is not a pleasant place. Amongst the natives there is absent that charming simplicity which is found in Tahiti; and the greater part of the English are the very refuse of society. Neither is the country itself attractive."
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